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I was contacted several months ago about a debt collection for an incredibly small sum. I asked to be sent something in the mail where I could remit payment for it. The individual told me the debt would be cancelled and immediately hung up on me. However, this debt is still being reported as being in collections from one of the credit reporting bureaus as of a few days ago.

I think this debt is technically valid and would gladly pay it to settle out the account. It's probably related to a lease I had long ago. However, the debt collector will not return my phone calls. What should my next step be?

Eric Urban
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6 Answers6

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This may not apply in your particular situation, but I think it's important to mention:

When a debt collector doesn't act like a debt collector, it may be because they aren't actually a debt collector.

It's certainly strange that someone called you to collect money from you, and when you asked for a simple document, they not only got off the phone quickly but they also told you the debt would be cancelled. That just doesn't make sense: Why would they cancel the debt? Why wouldn't they send you the document? My initial impression is that you were possibly being scammed.

The scam can take on many forms:

  1. Call a random person, make up a debt that is possibly believable, and try to get the person to pay it over the phone.
  2. Same as #1 but research the person first.
  3. Illegally obtain someone's credit report (somehow), notice a particular collection, and then contact that person and try to collect that particular debt. This could have a much higher success rate because the person would potentially know about the collection already, so it wouldn't seem "out of the blue".

Whenever you are called by a debt collector (or someone pretending to be one), it's a good idea to verify their identity first. More info here.

TTT
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What you are describing here is the opposite of a problem: You're trying to contact a debt-collector to pay them money, but THEY'RE ignoring YOU and won't return your calls! LOL! All joking aside, having 'incidental' charges show up as negative marks on your credit history is an annoyance- thankfully you're not the first to deal with such problems, and there are processes in place to remedy the situation.

Contact the credit bureau(s) on which the debt is listed, and file a petition to have it removed from your history. If everything that you say here is true, then it should be relatively easy.

Edit: See here for Equifax's dispute resolution process- it sounds like you've already completed the first two steps.

Derek_6424246
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You say your primary goal is to clean up your credit report, and you're willing to spend some cash to do it. OK. But beware: the law in this area is a funhouse mirror, everything works upside down and backwards.

To start, let's be clear: Credit reports are not extortion to force you into paying. They are a historical record of your creditworthiness, and almost impossible to fix without altering history.

Paying on this debt will affirm the old data was correct, and glue it to your report.

Do NOT pay the debt. Do NOT acknowledge the debt.

Here's how credit reporting works for R-9 (sent to collections) amounts. The data is on your credit report for 7 years. The danger is in this clock being restarted.

What will not restart the clock? Ignoring the debt, talking casusally to collectors, and the debt being sold from one collector to another.

What will restart the clock? Acknowledging the debt formally, court judgment, paying the debt, or paying on the debt (obviously, paying acknowledges the debt.)

Crazy! You could have a debt that's over 7 years old, pay it because you're a decent person, and BOOM! Clock restarts and 7 more years of bad luck. Even worse-- if they write-off or forgive any part of the debt, that's income and you'll need to pay income tax on it. Ugh!

Disavow, but settle

Like I say, the only way to remove a bad mark is to alter history.

Simple fact: The collector doesn't care about your bad credit mark; he wants money. And it costs a lot of money, time and/or stress for both of you to demand they research it, negotiate, play phone-tag, and ultimately go to court. So this works very well (this is just the guts, you have to add all the who, what, where, signature block, formalities etc.):

1 Company and Customer absolutely disagree as to whether Customer owes Company this debt: (explicitly named debt with numbers and amount)

2 But Company and Customer both eagerly agree that the expense, time, and stress of research, negotiation, and litigation is burdensome for both of us. We both strongly desire a quick, final and no-fault solution. Therefore:

3 Parties agree Customer shall pay Company (acceptable fraction here). Payment within 30 days. To be acknowledged in writing by Company.

4 This shall be absolute and final resolution.

5 NO-FAULT. Parties agree this settlement resolves the matter in good faith. Parties agree this settlement is done for practical reasons, this bill has not been established as a valid debt, and any difference between billed and settled amount is not a canceled nor forgiven debt.

6 Neither party nor its assigns will make any adverse statements to third parties relating to this bill or agreement. Parties agree they have a continuous duty to remove adverse statements, and agree to do so within seven days of request.

7 Parties specifically agree no adverse mark nor any mark of any kind shall be placed on Customer's credit report; and in the event such a mark appears, Parties will disavow it continuously. Parties agree that a good credit report has a monetary value and specific impacts on a customer's life.

8 Jurisdiction of law shall be where the effects are felt, and that shall be (place of service) regarding the amounts of the bill proper.

Severable, inseparable, counterparts, witness, signature lines blah blah.

A collector is gonna sign this because it's free money and it's not tricky.

What does this do? 1, 2 and 5 alter history to make the debt never have existed in the first place. To do this, it must formally answer the question of why the heck would you pay a debt that isn't real and you don't owe: out of sheer practicality; it's cheaper than Rogaine. This is your "get out of jail free" card both with the credit bureaus and the IRS.

Of course, 3 gives the creditor motivation to go along with it.

6 says they can't burn your credit. 7 says it again and they're agreeing you can sue for cash money. 8 lets you pick the court. The collector won't get hung up on any of these since he can easily remove the bad mark. (don't be mad that they won't do it "for free", that's what 3 is for.)

The key to getting them to take a settlement is to be reasonable and fair. Make sure the agreement works for them too. 6 says you can't badmouth them on social media. 4 and 5 says it can't be used against them. 8 throws them a bone by letting them sue in their home court for the bill they just settled (a right they already had). If it's medical, add "HIPAA does not apply to this document" to save them a ton of paperwork. Make it easy for them.

You want the collector to take it to his boss and say "this is pretty good. Do it." Don't send the money until their signed copy is in your hands. Then send promptly with an SASE for the receipt. Make it easy for them.

This is on you. As far as "getting them to send you an offer", creditors are reluctant to mail things especially to people they don't think will pay, because it costs them money to write and send. So you may need to be proactive about running them down with your offer. Like I say, it's a funhouse mirror.

Harper - Reinstate Monica
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This is somewhat unbelievable. I mean if you had a business of collecting debts, wouldn't you want to collect said debts? Rather than attempting to browbeat people with these delinquent debts into paying, you have someone volunteering to pay. Would you want to service that client? This would not happen in just about any other industry, but such is the lunacy of debt collecting.

The big question is why do you need this cleared off your credit? If it is just for a credit score, it probably is not as important as your more recent entries. I would just wait it out, until 7 years has passed, and you can then write the reporting agencies to remove it from your credit.

If you are attempting to buy a home or similarly large purpose and the mortgage company is insisting that you deal with this, then I would do the following:

  1. Write the company to address the issue. This has to be certified/return receipt requested. If they respond, pay it and insist that it be marked as paid in full on your credit. I would do this with a money order or cashiers check. Done.

  2. Dispute the charge with the credit reporting agencies, providing the documentation of no response. This should remove the item from your credit.

  3. Provide this documentation to the mortgage broker. This should remove any hangup they might have.

  4. Optional: Sue the company in small claims court. This will take a bit of time and money, but it should yield a profit. There was a post on here a few days ago about how to do this. Make part of any settlement to have your name cleared of the debt.

It is counterproductive to fall into the trap of the pursuit of a perfect credit score. A person with a 750 often receives the same rate options as a person with 850. Also your relationship with a particular lender could trump your credit score.

Currently I am "enjoying" the highest credit score of my life, over 820. Do you know how I did it? I got out of debt (including paying off the mortgage) and I have no intentions of ever going into debt for anything. So why does it matter? It is a bit ridiculous.

Canadian Luke
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Pete B.
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This doesn't seem to explain the odd behavior of the collector, but I wanted to point out that the debt collector might not actually own the debt. If this is the case then your creditor is still the original institution, and the collector may or may not be allowed to actually collect. Contact the original creditor and ask how you can pay off the debt.

David
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Send a well-documented payment to the original creditor. Do it in such a way that you would have the ability to prove that you sent a payment if they reject it. Should they reject it, demonstrate that to the credit reporting bureaus.

grovkin
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