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I have a 2003 Saturn ion 3. It shut off in traffic and I had to have it towed. I'm thinking it's a fuel related problem maybe but I wanted to add some information to this and hopefully someone can help me out.

So I've been working a night security job and I've been idleing my car 5 days a week for probably 6 hours a night. Maybe for 2 years. Do you think this is related? It may sound like common sense but I'm not a mechanic... Maybe Ive been hurting my vehicle all this time? Idk but recently it just died in traffic and when I try to start it the engine just turns over fastly without starting... I'm not sure how to explain it.. it keeps on trying to start without starting?? The car also has a hot battery but

I did notice before it died every time I got to a red light my battery light would come on if I had my ac on and once I turned it off the battery light would go away. Other than this the car has been perfect. I no longer work for that security company and idle my car but it's only been a month since the last time I did...

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
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now we eat
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5 Answers5

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When a car just "dies" like you describe and won't restart, one of two things is usually at issue: fuel pump; crank position sensor.

First thing to do is check for codes. A bad crank position sensor could show up there if bad. Other codes may be present which could lead you to the culprit.

If, when you turn the key on after the car has been sitting for hours you should hear the fuel pump whine (slight whirring sound from the gas tank area). If you're hearing this, it's probably not the fuel pump. If you hear nothing, put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line to see if you're getting pressure. There should be a Schreader valve on the fuel lines on the engine near the injectors to check fuel pressure. If you get nothing there, check the fuel pump fuse in the under hood fuse box to make sure it's in good shape. If bad, replace it (knowing full well it could blow again).

If no codes are present and the fuel pump is working, more than likely its the crank position sensor. Since this is a Hall effect sensor, you can test one by putting a multimeter between the two pins on the connector, then waving a metal object (like a wrench) near the face of the sensor. You should get a reading. Noting that, a replacement sensor is rather cheap. Replacing it outright might not be a bad way to go.

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
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To address your other symptom:

every time I got to a red light my battery light would come on if I had my ac on and once I turned it off the battery light would go away

it's probably unrelated to the car "dying". The battery light suggests that your alternator can't provide enough energy to keep the AC and everything else running at idle. Perhaps the belt driving it is worn out after all that idling and is slipping. It might be a good idea to check its wear and tension.

mustaccio
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In general, sudden death followed by rapid cranking with no start can be indicative of a broken or jumped timing belt or timing chain. An engine with a broken timing belt or chain may sound strange while cranking due to a lack of compression.

Your vehicle has experienced high idle hours, so if the timing system has not recently been serviced, this may be worth investigating. High idle hours will throw you off from the manufacturer's recommended replacement schedules for engine wear items such as timing belts, as those schedules are usually based on mileage rather than engine hours.

The Saturn Ion came with multiple engine options, so I'm not sure whether your vehicle employs a timing belt or a timing chain.

I agree that your battery light issue is likely unrelated. Since it goes away when the A/C is off, it may be the result of a worn or slipping accessory drive belt. This would also indicate high engine wear for a vehicle that may otherwise have low mileage.

Arnon
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Some cars run a net battery charging deficit at idle, especially if lights and AC are on, and/or if the system is not at its best, and can run the battery down (if enough time is spent idling) to the point where starting, and even continued running, are impacted. That doesn't really match your 'fast cranking' description, but it's still worth a look. Unlike old generator-based cars where this was more common than not, alternator-based cars usually don't have this problem, but it's not unheard-of.

jimc
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When you run a car engine at idle for extended periods of time, you build up more carbon deposits. It sounds like you have one or more stuck valves from carbon buildup. You really don't want your gas engines idling more than 30 minutes at a time without some load being put on it; that's my personal rule of thumb.

Even just driving a car to the local store around the corner and back reduces its total life. Cars are meant to fully heat up and stay heated and under power for 20 minutes or more to have a chance to break up and blow out carbon deposits.

I used to work for a car auction; they swapped out security cars every night to prevent damaging any of them. Obviously, you don't have that luxury.

If I were you, I'd be barking at management, asking what they're going to do to make throwing cars at the job make sense to me financially. Many security positions that require a vehicle (such as malls) will keep and maintain their own fleet for this purpose.

Best of luck getting it back on the road.

Jimmio92
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