I have a 2001 Toyota tundra that will start and run for about 10 to 15 minutes and then shut off and will not restart until it's cool again I've changed the oil pressure sensor and I have changed the two upstream oxygen sensors and I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor but it's still doing it it will start and run fine until it decides to shut off and then it will not do anything till the engine is completely cool
1 Answers
Just spit balling based on limited information and personal experience. Whether 3.4L or 4.7L engine, if it's using electronic fuel injection, both engines need their crank sensor to allow the engine computer to run. Mounted somewhere near the crankshaft to detect a stamped steel toothed wheel to generate precise timing signals as the electronic heartbeat of the engine computer to run the fuel pump, ignition system for spark and pulse injectors. Heat cycling eventually ages electronics and crank sensors may seem as lifetime parts. Yours may be intermittently failing with engine heat then operates after engine cool down. Rinse and repeat. As a magnetic Hall effect sensor, the internal coil may open from engine heat, disabling output to kill the entire EFI system. When this occurs; fuel pump stops, spark isn't generated and injectors fail to pulse. Once engine heat drops, the coil operates and the engine runs until heats affects it, repeatedly. If you are familiar with using a multimeter, you can measure the crank sensor resistance in three modes; ambient temperature, immersed in boiling water to replicate a warm engine and immersed in ice cold water. Resistance should not change drastically. However, if a hot sensor suddenly measures as an open or higher resistance compared to ambient temps, this indicates a faulty sensor. Expect resistance from 500-1500 ohms.
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