'2007 mazda 6 2.3 manual shift Keeps blowing the fuse for the taights
3 Answers
Why does my Taillights fuse keeps blowing
The simple answer is:
"because the circuit is drawing more current than the rating on the fuse".
But I suspect that is not really your question. The reason question is WHY is the taillight circuit drawing more current than it's supposed to?
Check the following:
Be sure you have the CORRECT specification bulbs in all the sockets on that circuit. Some bulbs have a greater current draw than others and using the wrong bulbs can cause this. Check your owners manual or service information for the correct bulb types.
Check for wiring faults. This is especially the case if modifications, like trailer wiring, have been made. It's easy for a short circuit to develop. Also check for rodent damage. Some wires are attractive to mice and other rodents and they will chew through the wires leaving you with an easy-to-short situation.
Check that there is no damage to any of the bulb sockets on the circuit. Sometimes bad connections due to corrosion can lead to hot spots which can melt parts of the bulb socket and lead to shorts.
If you don't have a multimeter, it's time to get one as you'll almost certainly need it for this job.
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If BOTH your taillights are out, the area to inspect first is not necessarily the taillight area in the back, but the wiring connection that both of the taillights runs out of. You can find a wiring diagram for your make/model/year that points to where exactly this junction is. If only one taillight was out, the problem is most likely in the taillight area.
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I didn't read the problem close enough, so here is what I think is a more practicle solution:
If it is an automatic transmission, the shift order is p R N D 2 1
With the Emergency Brake on, (and a new fuse) start the car in Neutral. Then shift to Drive. Did the fuse blow? Keep the car running. IF the fuse does not blow, move the shifter to Reverse. If the fuse blows, you now know the there is a route between the shifter and tailight area that is causing the fuse to blow. Explanation: When you go to Reverse, you are attempting to close a circuit. (to give a wire electricity) If there is an interruption along that wire (frayed connection etc) it will blow the fuse. For you, this would obviously be connected to your tailights. Unless there is a lot of rot underneath, it may be difficult to find the bad connection underneath the car. As @jwh20 said, a multimeter would be handy if you have a general idea where the problem lies.
Why do I think Reverse is the culprit? (I am assuming -perhaps incorrectly! - that the Reverse lights are connected to the same fuse, but this may or may not make a difference) I believe because of the stress over the years of the lever going into Reverse you have physically strained a connection at the source due to friction or force. If the paragraph above checks out, check the Reverse connection and all wiring AT THE LEVER AREA first.
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