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I have a 2009 Honda Accord with about 150k miles on it. Over the last couple weeks I noticed the crank time getting slightly longer then today it took a really long time before turning over and now the engine light came on.

The car appears to run okay for now. I had the starter replaced at 100k and this behavior isn't the same as when that happened. I am going to borrow a code reader but what could cause this? I scanned the computer and got P0339 which is tied to the crankshaft position sensor.

Update: The battery is good. The starter is newish (50k old) but I really have no idea if it is OEM. The PCM fix is simple I just don't have jack stands/jack to do it. Just dropped it off at the garage and explained everything. Hopefully just the sensor and I can be on my way.

Update 2: The tech checked everything and it all looked good so he is going to do a relearn on the system. Of course they recommended a host of other things but I will go somewhere else for that and do some of it myself.

Update 3: Three weeks on and it starts right up. Seems the computer relearn seems to have done the trick. Thanks for the help.

Update 4: May 28 the issue and code came back. This tech at the dealer actually diagnosed things and found that the starter is dying and the code is being thrown because the starter motor is slipping. I don't plan on keeping the car for more than a few months so I am not paying a for a new OEM starter at the dealer so they cleaned the battery terminals and cleared the code. I'll get a starter elsewhere.

Update 5: June 22. Finally put this to bed I believe. Non dealer garage said the starter was fine. Two of the ignition coils were weak. Swapped out all 4 plugs and all 4 coils myself for a fraction of the cost of a starter. Starts and drives fine now.

DavidRecallsMonica
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salisboss
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2 Answers2

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Update from your engine code, here's a list of possible issues. Start with the cheap/free options like making sure your connections are clean and correct. Then monitoring the battery/starter performance. Then lastly replacing stuff. (start with the sensor)

  1. Bad Ground or positive wire connections
  2. Faulty starter motor – too much current draw
  3. Weak battery or parasitic draw pulling battery down overnight
  4. Faulty sensor or sensor wiring (Use OEM crankshaft sensors when replacing)
  5. Faulty PCM

I'm too new to comment, but i'm going to guess maybe your fuel pump is going by what you posted. That check engine code is going to know better than me. Let me know what code it throws. Could always check the fuel pressure, but just go for the engine light code first.

Jeffyx
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Hi so I've had same issues with my accord 09nd hand owner had long crack for q while on warm engine but it would fire up, didn't really care but once it started making grading noise and got me to limp mode Bo more then like 2.5k rpm, I had actuator new timing chain everything put in the chain was slipping by 3 teeth, it's been a year now everything perfect all parts were from dealership etc. Anyhow 2 days ago I went to get my honda get her filled up do some shopping than on warm engine started cracking for a long time again... I should just stopped wuen it was cracking for a while anyways, it started up went straight to limp mode p0339 vsa engine and all the lights got home slowly, got it outa the limp mode my getting 5he battery unplugged for 5 10 mins got it outa limp mode drove it to.the machinc who redone all my chains actuator etc his computer shower misfire on 02 or 03 middle cylinders but after clearing codes lights 8t was fine so went to dealership and they told reprogram for 160$ the modelator and from now on it starts perf after 1 sec of cracking, so for every1 who has those issues I didn't get misfires on autozone reader my reader but on computer when I hooked it up it showed both cylinder misfires but drove fine found out my parents never went and get the reprogram which came out July 15 2011 for all the 08 lx accords 4 door and some 09 and I'm hoping that was the issue the only dealership told me if I ever replaced q started with not an oem part it might also pop the codes back but that should not be an issue

Mike Kosinski
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