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Went to clear coat my headlights after I sanded and removed all the yellow oxidation.

Final sanding before applying clear coat was with 3000 grit.

The temperature inside the garage was ~59F.

Used Krylon clear non-yellowing krylon

Directions say to spray with temperatures anywhere from 50-90F enter image description here

I first applied light coats then little heavier coats after. Both came out dull/milky but some of it went away.

Figured I'd give it 24 hrs to cure and maybe clear up but today it looked dull with minimal milkiness.

Tried light wet sanding and buffing but it still has a dull appearance that's more noticeable in person than pictures for some reasonenter image description here

I don't think their was much humidity in the air as the temperature wasn't that high.

Any tips for avoiding this?

ohmmy
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2 Answers2

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All you need to do is polish it. All rattle can clear coat looks like this. I did the whole rear end of a car after repairing some rust. I did black with clear over it. The clear just didn't have a mirror finish. It was smooth, but had a slight orange peel. I just polished it and poof, it was perfect.

You need to remove the headlight assembly (not hard), and use an orbital buffer with a terry cloth cover and some cheap polishing compound. It will clean up perfectly to a mirror finish. Next, wax it. Since its painted now, you have to treat it like any painted part of the car.

Also, did you know they sell clear spray paint with UV protection as well?

https://www.cureuv.com/products/lensbright-uv-headlight-restoration-coating-12oz?variant=24007860807

Its sort of expensive, but it gets the job done.

CarComp
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Just clear coated my car's headlights after sanding them to clarity. I used wet sanding, cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, dry then sprayed, but cloudy is an understatement. Hoping this clears up by the am, but their was some humidity in the air and I am bummed now, thinking I will have to sand off that spray job. That's what happens when you rush through a job.

Marcus Moore
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