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I have really no idea about electronics. I am trying to provide IR lighting for my night camera that I use with the raspberry Pi. The Pi is powered by a 5v usb power bank. The IR requires 12v.

I purchased these:

https://uk.banggood.com/DC-12V-48LED-IR-940nm-Night-Vision-Infrared-Illuminator-Board-For-CCTV-Home-Security-Camera-p-1280391.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

https://uk.banggood.com/48pcs-IR-LEDs-Light-Board-Infrared-Illuminator-940nm-Invisible-Light-at-Night-No-Red-Exposure-Camera-p-1281930.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

And thought getting this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071X6VYXR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to power from a 5V USB Power bank would work.

But it did not.

I cannot seem to find anything that will power these lights.

I also rather not do any soldering.

2 Answers2

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A similar product appears to have a 12V, 2A output:

SEDNA - USB Type A 5v to 12V 2A DC DC Converter with 9 x 90 Degree Adapter Jack https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07952G6KT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EDrlFbDWTFCZ8

2A seems to be more than enough for your LEDs. Would have commented but not enough reputation.

Hari5000
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Using power formula for DC circuits: Power [Watts] = Voltage [Volts] x Current [Amps]

If you are stuck with USB 2.0, then you are limited in how much current you can draw by the USB 2.0 specifications, which is 2A @ 5V, for a total of 2 * 5 = 10W.

So, you then need to increase the voltage using what's called a boost converter, which will boost the voltage up to a certain level; but unfortunately the total power you can draw still depends on the USB port, that being 10 Watts.
If we assume a 100% efficiency of the converter (ideal), when boosting from 5V to 12V and having 10W available, we will get 10 / 12 = 833 mA maximum output current.
Since the product page of the first lamp says that 1 Amp of current is required at 12V, i don't think you can ever hope to power said lamp with a USB 2.0 boost converter.

I tried to look around for a USB 3.0 boost converter with support for the Power Delivery protocol, but couldn't find any: these would support higher power, but would in turn require a USB 3.0 power back with Power Delivery protocol support.
They also might be more expensive.

Meanwhile, you could check with a multimeter the output of your USB 2.0 boost converter to see if it still works, and saved itself thanks to internal over-current protection, or if it's actually dead.

Jack
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