iPhone 16 Microphone Removal

Step 1

Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your phone.
Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.

Step 2

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 3

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.

Step 4

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

@leifdewolf I wouldn't skip it for a first repair.

Gabriel-Science -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?

Mutshidzi Rambau -

I don't have a pick, but how much better are these picks than an old credit card for opening an iPhone 13 mini?

mike eng -

The pick in my iFixIt kit was packed with the battery, not with the rest of the toolkit.

Tony Houlihan -

Step 5

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
You can also use an iOpener to heat the back glass. Follow these instructions to heat and apply the iOpener properly.

Step 6

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
While supporting the frame with one hand, pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 7

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the following steps, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the following areas:
A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume down button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone.

Step 8

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 9

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Slide your pick around the bottom right corner and to the volume down button to separate the adhesive and release the metal clip.
Don't slide past the volume buttons to avoid damaging the wireless charging cable.
You'll hear and feel the metal clip release as you pass it.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 11

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge.
Slide the second pick around the bottom left corner and along the left edge of the screen to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.
Leave this pick inserted at the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 13

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Slide your second opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.
Continue sliding your pick around the top right corner until you reach the Action button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14

At this point, the back glass should be free from the frame. If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with your pick to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.
Swing open the back glass to the right of the phone to separate the remaining adhesive.
Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.
Remove the opening picks before continuing.

Step 15

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the two 1 mm‑long screws securing the middle connector cover.

Step 16

Insert the point of a spudger in either cutout on the middle connector cover.
Slide the cover towards the left edge of the phone and release its hook from its slot on the logic board.
Remove the cover.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 18

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector.

Step 19

Lift the back glass off the frame and remove it.

Step 20

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.8 mm‑long screws securing the Taptic Engine bracket.

Step 21

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the Taptic Engine bracket.

Step 22

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine press connector.

Step 23

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
One 2.2 mm‑long screw
One 1.7 mm‑long screw

Step 24

Use the point of a spudger to lift the Taptic Engine out of the frame.
Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 25

Remove the five screws securing the loudspeaker:
Two 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screws
One 2.0 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 2.9 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm‑long tri‑point Y000 screw

Step 26

Use the point of a spudger to lift the loudspeaker out of the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.

Step 27

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the microphone press connector.

Step 28

Remove the four screws securing the microphone:
Two 3.3 mm‑long standoff screws
One 1.1 mm‑long tri‑point Y000 screw
One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
If you don't have a standoff driver, you may use a thin flathead driver—but be careful not to strip the shallow notches in the screw heads.